A few years ago (quite a number of years ago, in fact), I was sitting
in The Lock Tavern in Camden with Tim Wilson. This pub used to employ
the ruse of playing painfully loud polka music at chucking out time in
order to get everyone to leave. I don't know if they still do, as I
haven't been back there in ages.
We were several pints into the conversation and for reasons unknown we were discussing the work of the 'land artist'
Richard Long.
It was he who took art into pioneering conceptual realms by calling a
walk 'art', and he is particularly noted for the circles and straight
lines that he would trace over stretches of countryside, both in this
country and across the plains of Canada, Mongolia and Bolivia.
We
argued pointlessly about how hard it would be to walk in big circles in
different parts of the world, given geography and rights-of-way and
that sort of thing. Much easier to walk nice geometrical shapes on the
flats of Mongolia, of course. But what would happen, we asked ourselves,
if we were to apply a pair of compasses to a map of London? How much
zigzagging would you be forced to do in order to walk as closely as
possible to an imaginary circle on the ground? What would we find along
the way?
Thus, the London Circle Walk was born.
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The London Circle Walk (click to see full size) |
The circle's position and dimensions are
partly pre-determined and partly arbitrary. There can only be one viable
location for its centre: the equestrian statue of Charles I at the top
of Whitehall. This traffic island, south of Trafalgar Square, was the
original location of Charing Cross, and is the official centre of
London. A plaque marking the spot reads:
'On the site
now occupied by the statue of King Charles I was erected the original
Queen Eleanor's cross a replica of which stands in front of Charing
Cross station. Mileages from London are measured from the site of the
original cross.'
The radius of the circle is not a
round number of miles or kilometres, but instead is chosen to take
advantage of convenient crossing places of the Thames. A circle that
uses Tower Bridge and Albert Bridge creates a walk that fills one whole
day (at least six hours, though often longer, depending on how much
dawdling, sightseeing and stopping for food is done). A larger circle,
crossing the Thames via the Rotherhithe Tunnel and Wandsworth Bridge,
for example, would look much more geometrically perfect, but would take
more than one day to complete.
Tim and I have since
walked the route many times in both directions. We have agreed that, for
reasons both aesthetic and practical, the walk is best done in a
clockwise direction, and it is best to start at the middle of Tower
Bridge (at '3 o'clock', if the circle is imagined as a clock face). The
route begins by working its way south among the housing and industrial
estates on either side of the Old Kent Road. Skirting the edge of
Burgess Park, it runs between Kennington and Camberwell, crossing
several of the large thoroughfares that slice through South London,
reaching the southernmost point at Stockwell. The route then zigzags in
between New Covent Garden at Nine Elms and the rail junction at
Battersea, before emerging into Battersea Park, where it runs around the
edge of the boating lake and up the steps to the Peace Pagoda. A small
detour is needed to cross the river by Albert Bridge. Then the route
ascends through Chelsea and South Kensington, round the Natural History
Museum, through Imperial College and past the Royal College of Art,
entering Kensington Gardens at Queen's Gate. This is the halfway point.
The
walk exits at Lancaster Gate, does more zigzagging around Paddington
Station and under the Marylebone Flyover, then joins Regent's Canal for a
short stretch at Lisson Grove, entering Regent's Park next to the
London Central Mosque. It crosses Regent's Park, and runs along the
Outer Circle through the middle of London Zoo, exiting the park at
Gloucester Gate. Up Parkway, through the heart of Camden Town, the route
then has to do a large detour around the massive construction site
still occupying the area north of King's Cross, which marks the
northernmost point. Residential streets then take the walk through
Barnsbury, across Islington Green and down to meet Regent's Canal again.
There are some interesting back streets in the Hoxton/Shoreditch area
before the route abruptly enters the City of London at Bishopsgate, runs
down Petticoat Lane to Aldgate and Minories, before returning you to
Tower Bridge. It is always a slightly surreal experience to return so
abruptly to the point you started at earlier in the day.
The
London Circle Walk contains some amazing and unexpected highlights. It
also runs tantalizingly close to major well-known monuments, which it
blithely ignores. There are places where shortcuts could be taken, in
order to get closer to the geometric circle. All involve a degree of
daring and/or illegality. Hire a boat to take you across Battersea Park
boating lake to avoid going around it. Bribe a security guard to let you
out the fire exit at the back of the Natural History Museum. Bring a
ladder to break into London Zoo. A team of parkour enthusiasts could
knock miles off the total distance. Building works currently underway
suggest that the route will evolve at some point in the future, possibly
bringing the walker closer to the True Circle, or further from it.
It
is fascinating to observe what happens when an abstract geometrical
shape is superimposed on an urban landscape, which is organized along
lines that are partly rational, partly organic and partly chaotic.
Different definitions of the word 'natural' come into conflict.
Obviously, you are forced to think about cities in a different way,
following a route that no one would normally take. As a walker, you are
both bound by the constraints of the route (no deviation from the circle
is permitted!) and liberated from those all-too-beaten paths that
others have made. The route almost takes on a ritual quality. You cannot
help but become aware of time and space, observing the linear passage
of the sun across the sky as you yourself perform a symbolic tour of a
cyclical universe encoded in microcosm.
In addition to
this pretentious arty bollocks, the walk offers plenty of general
inspiration. It offers a stark illustration of different social
conditions along the way, passing both the Aylesbury Estate in Walworth
and Cheyne Walk in Chelsea, for example. It includes a bus garage, a
museum, a university, a giraffe enclosure, a hospital, a high-security
police station and a theatre – a rich resource of material for any
narrative or fiction that might aim to encompass a cross-section of
London life. It is made up of concrete, water, grass, brick, glass,
trees, steel and earth. It passes at least fifty pubs. And below street
level lie generations of souls amid fields, streets and houses that have
long vanished from view, not to mention an even more ancient geology
and hydrology.
Tim is leading a group who will be setting off from Tower Bridge on Sunday 30th September at 10am sharp. Do feel free to join in. Contact him on